The Pocket Square and the tie - a harmonic duo...

While a pocket square, the stylish humble handkerchief, has the potential to enhance the personality of most men, the overall aesthetic appeal can be increased if certain rules are followed regarding matching your pocket square with the tie you happen to be wearing. True, the pocket square is required to match the tie as far as the color is concerned; however, there should preferably be a certain level of contrast. The key here is that the pocket square should complement the tie, rather than completely match it. This subtle difference ensures that the pocket square retains its unique personality and does not become an ‘extension of the tie’.

Trends show that most men prefer to have a difference in the pocket square and the tie - to project the typically male ‘care a damn’ attitude as far as clothing is concerned. Men assume that wearing a perfectly matching tie and pocket square could render to the casual observer an impression of vanity, something no ‘manly’ man would want to convey.

One thought to be borne in mind is that the contrast between the pocket square and other clothing items like the tie, shirt and suit should not be too manifest, as then the pocket square would  rather act as a distraction, instead of complementing the attire. Thus, a blue or pink pocket square could be worn with a blue or pink tie, but it is advisable that the blue or pink colors show some variance.

With regards to fabric, one school of thought claims that the pocket square should be made of a different fabric as the tie, while another says that both fabrics should be the same. Generally, if both the shirt and the suit are made of silk, then it would be good to don a tie and pocket square in the same fabric - silk. Here, however the ultimate decision rests with the user. Some people prefer using a linen pocket square in situations as there is a break in the monotony of seeing only silk.

There was a doubt among style aficionados as to whether the amount of pocket square material seen above the rim of the collar is proportional to the width of the tie. However, there is no hard and fast rule on this front. It is rather the width of the coat’s lapels that governs the size of the visible portion of the pocket square. The main parameters that decide the amount of pocket square visible above the pocket are the size of the pocket square, the fabric, and the folding technique.   

Sometimes, a Belisi pocket square can be worn with an open-collared shirt too. In this case, since there is no tie, the question of pocket square-tie compatibility does not arise. All the same, the compatibility requirements for the shirt and the suit remain the same. As always, the pocket square is tucked into the left breast pocket of the shirt.

Pocket squares can be used with a bow, a bow tie and cravat too, with the same matching rules applicable in this instance too. With a judiciously coordinated pocket square-tie combination, you can go out there and impress the gentry.